THE DEADLINE FOR CRUELTY
You may not know that most independent beauty brands are created by private-label companies. Private-label companies are large manufacturers that produce many products for many brands. Someone with an idea for a new makeup brand, often goes to them with a product currently on the market and say what they like but want to improve and the private-label company will produce the variation required. Once the formulation has been accepted by the client, the private-label company offers a selection of packaging or bottling options to choose from, the client’s logo will be added et voila!: the New Makeup Line is born.
The private-label company will make sure the ingredients of the new product have up-to-date testing and have been registered with the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review). The CIR is a trade association that keep toxicology reports on all ingredients currently used in cosmetics and no makeup brand will get insurance without this ingredient verification.
For Face Lace, I sourced ingredients and materials directly from manufacturers and not through a private-label company. This meant that when it was time to submit my ingredients list to the EU Cosmetic Directive I had to acquire all the toxicity reports from the manufacturer of the adhesive I used and get an independent laboratory to verify the toxicity of my product. The independent toxicology report I commissioned was essential to get insurance for Face Lace. The manufacturer of the adhesive I use had done extensive testing (on animals) several decades ago. This is why I have a little insight into this Pandora’s box of animal testing.
I see many of my MUA friends trying to navigate the minefield of whether makeup is or isn’t cruelty-free and often post LISTS of what to avoid or support. I’m afraid I am always sceptical of these lists. Wanting to understand once and for all, I contacted two of the leading organisations that award cruelty-free certifications. According to www.choosecrueltyfree.org in Australia cruelty-free means a product not using any ingredients that have been tested on animals in the last 5 years. According to www.crueltyfreeinternational.org a cosmetic brand must choose a date from the past- they recommend 2013 – and any ingredients animal-tested from this time forward will not be given a cruelty-free certification. But it is up to the brand to choose their date from the past.
Let’s take an ingredient called Dimethicone used in MANY foundations which are on the accepted cruelty-free list. Do a Google search of “Dimethicone Toxicology Report”. In a few minutes you should be able to find a toxicology report that lists animal testing on rabbits, mice and rats done in 2005.
So, I am really curious to know, is not having been tested on animals in the last 3-10 years enough if you are against animal cruelty?
By Phyllis Cohen